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Любите ли Вы ювелирные украшения так, как люблю их я?

А для меня ценность камней определяется  главным образом в их оформлении.  Правда. Я не верю в то, что лучшие друзья девушек это бриллианты. Или там золотые кольца и серьги.  Я считаю, что  настоящие друзья девушек в этом смысле это потрясающе красивые вещи. А не цепи в палец толщиной.(или в 25 рядов, как некоторые любят)

Кстати, эта заглавная брошь... А кто может представить НА СКОЛЬКО Я ЛЮБЛЮ ИЗУМРУДЫ!!!!

вот их цвет и блеск, их вкрапления и изъяны я могу рассматривать вечно.  да-да-да. Нет совершеннее камня чем изумруд. И не надо бро алмазы. Вряд ли я когда-то пойму их прелесть. До сих пор не поняла. Но Хранить под подушкой самый большой изумруд. Вот он где, Скрудж Макдак во мне :))

Ювелирное мастерство это когда совершенство материала доводят до совершенства формы. И никак иначе.

Оригинал взят у shakko_kitsune в Гигантская выставка Картье открывается в Париже

“Cartier – Style and History”, Grand Palais

На выставке представлены драгоценности, многие из которых принадлежали членам монархических домов Европы, включая свадебную тиару Кейт, драгоценности Уоллис Симпсон и т.п.

Brooch Cartier Paris, 1913

cartier-expo-le-style-et-histoire-paris-small

Bracelet Cartier Paris, 1925

Bracelet
Cartier Paris, 1925
Platinum
Round old- and single-cut diamonds
Leaf-shaped carved sapphires and rubies
Emerald beads studded with collet-set diamonds, emerald cabochons
Onyx beads (berries)
Black enamel
Provenance: Mrs. Cole Porter.
Photo: N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

A swirl of diamond tiaras, including the Cartier Halo tiara worn by Kate Middleton on her wedding day, greets visitors as they enter the exhibit.  From there, the “voyage into the creative DNA of the Maison” takes off into the depths of Cartier’s archives and extensive collection.

The Cartier Halo tiara worn by Kate Middleton.

The Cartier Halo tiara worn by Kate Middleton.
Photo By © Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2013

Among the highlights of the exhibit, the Maison’s famous Indian influences can be seen in the magnificent Tutti-Frutti necklace made for Daisy Fellowes, as well as the restored version of the spectacular necklace specially commissioned by the Maharaja of Patiala in 1928.  The stunning necklace features a replica of the original 234.65-carat De Beers diamond that was its centerpiece among the surrounding 2,930 diamonds.

Necklace Cartier Paris, special order, 1928

Necklace
Cartier Paris, special order, 1928
Platinum, old-cut and rose-cut diamonds (chains and links), one cushion-shaped yellow zirconia, four white zirconias, thirteen white topazes, two synthetic rubies, one smoky quartz , one citrine
Created for Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharajah of Patiala.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Along with the countless noteworthy jewels are early examples of the Tank watch and a central rotunda displaying 18 examples of Cartier’s iconic Mystery Clocks, of which only about 100 were made between 1912 and 1930.

Tank Wristwatch

Tank Wristwatch
Cartier Paris, 1920
Platinum, gold
One sapphire cabochon
Leather strap
Round LeCoultre caliber 119 movement, Côtes de Genève decoration, rhodiumized
8 adjustments, 19 jewels, Swiss lever escapement, bimetallic balance, Breguet balance spring
This particularly rare timepiece is one of the very first Tank created by Cartier.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Perhaps the most exciting section of the exhibition is the latter segment where the spotlight shines on Cartier’s eccentric celebrity clients, including Elizabeth Taylor, the Duchess of Windsor, Barbara Hutton and Mexican actress María Félix.

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Photo courtesy of Cartier

Many of the jewels ordered by these four clients, in particular, have now become emblematic to Cartier’s identity:  Taylor’s ruby and diamond parure, the Duchess of Windsor’s famous Flamingo and Panther brooches and Bib necklace (to name but a few), Hutton’s jeweled tiger suite and Félix’s necklace featuring two imposing life-like crocodiles.  Another client of note is American heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post, whose devout patronage to Cartier is remembered with a section of items on loan from Post’s former estate cum private museum Hillwood.

senatus_uiCRYu

With its last exhibition in Paris held in 1989, Cartier has pulled out all the stops with its latest Paris exhibition, a grand testament to the Maison’s prolific output of exceptional jeweled creations throughout the 20th century.

Hair Ornament Cartier Paris, 1902

Hair Ornament, Cartier Paris, 1902
Platinum
Old- and rose-cut diamonds
Millegrain setting
Provenance: Mrs. William Field
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Scroll Tiara Cartier Paris, 1910

Scroll Tiara, Cartier Paris, 1910
Platinum
One cushion-shaped diamond, round old-cut diamonds
Millegrain setting
Sold to Elizabeth, Queen of the Belgians (1876-1965).
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Santos-Dumon Wristwatch Cartier Paris, 1912

Santos-Dumon Wristwatch, Cartier Paris, 1912
Yellow gold
One sapphire cabochon
Leather strap
Round LeCoultre caliber 126 movement, Côtes de Genève decoration, rhodiumized, 8 adjustments, 18 jewels, Swiss lever escapement, bimetallic balance, Breguet balance spring.
This particularly rare timepiece is one of the very first Santos created by Cartier.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Brooch Cartier Paris, 1913

Brooch, Cartier Paris, 1913
Platinum, round old-cut diamonds, one triangular beveled 11.90 carat emerald, emerald cabochons and drop-shaped emeralds, natural pearls, onyx
This brooch was exhibited in the Collection of Jewels Created by Messrs Cartier from the Hindoo, Persian, Arab, Russian and Chinese arts at Cartier New York in November 1913.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Mystery Clock Cartier Paris, 1923

Large Portique Mystery Clock, Cartier Paris, 1923
Cartier Paris, 1923
Yellow gold, platinum, rock crystal, rose-cut diamonds, onyx, coral cabochons, black enamel
Square, 8-day double-barrel movement, gold-plated, 13 jewels, bimetallic balance, Breguet balance spring
Transmission axle in rock-crystal crossbar masked by coral cabochon. Billiken figure removable to provide access to the movement. Arbor for winding movement and setting hands.
This clock was the first in a series of 6 in the form of a Shinto “shrine gate” (portique), all different and all made by Cartier between 1923 and 1925.
Sold to Mrs. H.F. McCormick (Ganna Walska).
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Chimera Bangle Cartier Paris, 1928

Chimera Bangle, Cartier Paris, 1928
Gold, platinum
Cushion-shaped, pear-, single- and baguette-cut diamonds
Two fluted emerald beads, one carved emerald, buff-top emeralds and emerald cabochons
Two leaf-shaped carved sapphires, sapphire cabochons and buff-top sapphires
Carved coral
Green, blue and black enamel
The eyes are represented by inverted cushion-shaped diamonds. The bracelet opens by twisting one of the two dragon heads.
This bangle is a blend of Indian and Chinese traditions — produced in various materials, the Chimera bracelet became a great Cartier classic.
Provenance: Ganna Walska.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Panther Vanity Case Cartier Paris, 1928

Panther Vanity Case, Cartier Paris, 1928
Yellow gold, platinum
Black enamel
Rose- and baguette-cut diamonds
Engraved emeralds and green enamel (cypress), two square-cut emeralds
Rubies (trunk), calibrated and faceted rubies (earth)
Onyx cabochons (panther)
The interior fitted with a mirror, a lipstick, a covered powder compartment, and a cigarette compartment with gold openwork retaining clip.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Bracelet Cartier Paris, 1930

Bracelet, Cartier Paris, 1930
Platinum
Baguette-, round old- and single-cut diamonds
Thirty rock crystal half-disks and sixty rock crystal beads
Platinum
Round old- and single-cut diamonds
Forty-seven rock crystal half-disks
Sold to Gloria Swanson, American actress (1897-1983).
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Flamingo Brooch Cartier Paris, special order, 1940

Flamingo Brooch, Cartier Paris, special order, 1940
Platinum, yellow gold
Brilliant-cut diamonds
Calibré-cut emeralds, sapphires and rubies
Sapphire cabochons
One citrine
Sold to the Duke of Windsor.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Bird Brooch, Cartier Paris, special order, 1948

Bird Brooch, Cartier Paris, special order, 1948
Platinum, white gold
One emerald-cut diamond of 2.76 carats
Two square-cut diamonds of 2.35 and 1.29 carats
Respectively 991 baguette-, brilliant- and fancy-cut diamonds weighing 83.89 carats in total
The exceptional dimensions (20.20 cm long, weighing 156.45 g) make this brooch a unique post-war piece of high jewelry.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Panther Clip Brooch, Cartier Paris, 1949

Panther Clip Brooch, Cartier Paris, 1949
Platinum, white gold
Single-cut diamonds
Two pear-shaped yellow diamonds (eyes)
One 152.35-carat Kashmir sapphire cabochon
Sapphire cabochons (spots)
This panther is the second three-dimensional example that Cartier made for the Duchess of Windsor (the first one surmounted an emerald cabochon).
Sold to the Duchess of Windsor (1896–1986).
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Palm-Tree Clip Brooch, Cartier Paris, special order, 1957

Palm-Tree Clip Brooch, Cartier Paris, special order, 1957
Platinum, white gold
Brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds
Seven cushion-shaped Burmese rubies, weighing 23.10 carats in total
The trunk of this palm-tree is articulated.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Tiger Clip Brooch, Cartier Paris, 1957

Tiger Clip Brooch, Cartier Paris, 1957
Yellow gold
Single- and brilliant-cut diamonds ranging from fancy intense yellow to near colorless
Marquise-shaped emeralds (eyes)
Fancy-shaped onyx (stripes)
This piece is articulated.
Sold to Barbara Hutton.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Crocodile Necklace Cartier Paris, special order, 1975

Crocodile Necklace, Cartier Paris, special order, 1975
Gold
1 023 brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamonds, weighing 60.02 carats in total
Two navette-shaped emerald cabochons (eyes)
1 060 emeralds, weighing 66.86 carats in total
Two ruby cabochons (eyes)
Entirely articulated, the two crocodiles can be worn separately as brooches.
Made as a special order for María Félix.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

page2-2

Diadem, Cartier Paris, 1907
For her marriage to Prince George of Greece and Denmark in 1907, Princess Marie Bonaparte ordered this diadem from Cartier, compose of olive leaves in diamonds and emeralds
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Tiara, Cartier de Paris, 1914,

Tiara, Cartier Paris, 1914
Produced by Cartier Paris in 1914, this audacious avant-garde piece is a magnificent example of the Art Deco stylization.
Inspired by the shape of the Russian kokoshnik tiaras, this platinum pieces is set with old-cut round diamonds, 15 natural pearls, calibrated and fancy-shaped onyx and black enamel.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

page2-4-b

Bandeau, Cartier Paris, order of 1923
Composed of cushion-cut diamonds and round old-cut diamonds. Mounted on platinum, this bandeau can be disassembled to form two bracelets.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

page2-5-b

Tiara, Cartier London, 1937
Produced by Cartier London in 1937, this tiara is composed of yellow gold, platinum, old- and baguette-cut round diamonds, one large emerald-cut octagonal citrine of 62.35 carats as well as calibrated baguette-cut citrines and one hexagonal citrine.
The central motif can be detached from the tiara and worn as a brooch, pointing downward.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

page3-2-11

Mystery Clock with Single Axle, Cartier Paris, 1927
Yellow gold, platinum, rock crystal, obsidian (base), ebonite (platform), rose-cut diamonds, onyx, coral, black enamel.
Rectangular 8-day movement, gold-plated, 13 jewels, Swiss lever escapement, bimetallic balance, Breguet balance spring.
Provenance: Queen Victoria Eugenia of Spain, wife of Alphonse XIII.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Chimera Mysterclock

Chimera Mystery Clock, Cartier New York, 1926
Yellow gold, platinum, citrine (dial), agate (chimera), nephrite (waves), rose-cut diamonds, natural pearls, emerald cabochons, onyx, coral, red and black enamel.
Rectangular 8-day movement, gold-plated, 15 jewels, bimetallic balance, Breguet balance spring.
The agate chimera, of Chinese origin, dates from the 19th century. This mystery clock was the 6th in a series of 12 that featured animals or figurines, made between 1922 and 1931, partly inspired by Louis XV and Louis XVI clocks in which the clock was set on the back of an animal.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

1921, Mystery clock with single axle

1921, Mystery clock with single axle
The first mystery clocks appeared in 1912. They were “mysterious” because their platinum and diamond hands seem to float within the clock’s immaculate rock crystal casing, seemingly unconnected to any mechanism. The hands were attached to two glass discs, each fitted into a metal border edged with gear teeth. The movement, which was generally housed in the clock base, turned the two discs – one at the speed of the minute hand and the other at the speed of the hour hand. The metal borders of the discs were hidden in the hour circle.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Majestic Hindu Necklace, Cartier Paris,

Majestic Hindu Necklace, Cartier Paris, commissioned in 1936 by Daisy Fellowes and transformed in 1963. The piece boasts different cuts of sapphires, rubies and emeralds on a platinum and white gold base.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Panther Cuff, Cartier Paris, 1958,

Panther Cuff, Cartier Paris, 1958, in platinum, white gold, diamonds, sapphire cabochons, marquise-cut emeralds and onyx.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier

Brooch, special order New York 1925,

Brooch, special order New York 1925, made from platinum with a cushion-cut diamond of 3.83 carats, a pear-shaped diamond, a round-cut diamond, a cabochon emerald of 15.12 carats, coral and black

lacquer. Order made using the client’s stones. Collection Cartier.
N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, Copyright Cartier


Comments

( 1 ответил — ответ )
nuna_naduha
Dec. 11th, 2013 06:59 pm (UTC)
Восхитительная тиара из чего-то желтого и умопомрачительные крокодилы. Страшно подумать сколько они весят.
( 1 ответил — ответ )

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